Sumatra Selamat Datang

We left Java for a visa stop in KL on the 8th September. After being extorted for money on the way in and out of Indonesia and 8 hours in McDonalds in LCCT KL airport we got on our way back to Indonesia and Sumatra. I didn't know much about Sumatra before I got here so I'll provide some points of interest for those who also have little background knowledge of this part of Indonesia. Sumatra is the world's 6th largest island with 40 million people spread across it's rugged volcanic terrain. Medan is the capital and Aceh to the north of the island has Indonesia's highest demographic for Islam. Up until 2004 Aceh was occupied by Indonesian troops as there was unrest in the province, with Acehians wanting independence from Indonesia outright. Aceh was also the area of the country most affected by the Tsunami.

With the background provided I'll jump into our experiences in our 12 days here. Medan is the capital and is the grimy, smoggy Indo city you become accustomed to in these parts. We stayed for a night, when it down poured and literally stranded us in a restaurant. We took the opportunity to chat to some locals and practice our Indonesian. The next morning he saw the mosque, Mesjid Raya, and the Sultan's Palace. This is the only mosque in Indonesia designed by a foreigner. We jumped on a public bus and headed for Berastagi after our fill of sightseeing.

Berastagi is the base camp for climbing the volcano Sibayak. we chose the easiest route with no guide. People have died on this volcano and after our climb down, specified in last year's Lonely Planet, I can see why. The route up is fine but I'd advise to take that way back down. The "steps" are quite literally deadly, especially during wet season. Volcano conquered we hit the road again for Danau Toba. Danau is a lake, formed by a volcano, it is the biggest lake in SE Asia. What makes it interesting is the pennilsula that forms right into the centre of the lake. The weather had subsided by September but during summer months this would be a lovely place. Expect to be hassled on the ferry though, takes the gloss off a little as guys will push and force cards and decisions of accommodation down your neck for the half an hour of pleasant seafaring.

After a few nights was the long haul back to Medan and onto Bukit Lawang. Lawang is the location of the Orangutan sanctuary set in the jungle there. Unfortunately time meant we missed the feeding and Orangutan seeing as we had to head back to Medan after one night to overnight to Banda Aceh. Lawang is a charming spot with lovely peolple. We wish we had met the Orang (People)-Utans (Of The Forest) as well though. Back on a bus on the worst road known to man before the 12 hour night bus into Aceh.

Banda Aceh is a charming place. Even after 12 hours overnight and being greeted by 30 guys shouting "mister, mister" upon disembarking from the bus I had to feel empathy for the people here. Wiped out by the Tsunami, even now they struggle to make a living. Homes lost, families destroyed, food, water, supplies nonexistent, these people are a credit to the Indonesian people. The pictures of the rebuild shows that 4 years later they still struggle, with no materials or man power to even get back to where they were, let alone prevent a catastrophe like this happen again.

I am in Pualeh Weh now, really quiet with the summer gone. The morning and beach is beautiful and deserted. Just what I need before the stresses and struggles of Ireland in a few weeks. Get relaxed is the only aim of a day. Tomorrow we head back to B. Aceh to try and get a flight to meet Ian and Paddy in Bali before the end of Ramadhan which is just crazy here. This will be 5th last post, all things going well, so enjoy and I'll wrap my Indonesia adventure up in our next chapter.

Rainy Medan

Mesjid Raya Medan

Sultan's Place Medan

The Stairs to Gunung Sibayak

Joe looks like he's on his way to Mordor, not Sibayak

Frodo forgot his elvish bread

The STEPS!!

I fell once or twice to the determent of my rear

Fishermen out at 6.30 on the lake

Sunrise over Parapat

Bukit Lawang looks amazing

Joe across from the sanctury

Great carpenters in Indonesia

A big ship left 400m inland in Banda Aceh

Houses missed the ship but the Tsunami did the rest

NGO efforts have built hundreds of homes for survivors

The Mosque actually stayed intact. Amazing, I might convert to Islam! Eh maybe not... Ramadhan!

Memorial still in construction on the site of the death of hundreds

Construction continues... Slowly!

Pualeh Weh, Gabang beach

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